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Descendinge stairs into Starters and Puds and you could easilymagine you have walked into a Michael Caine heist movie. From the entrance the former bank vault splits into a sprawling maze of rooms, each with their own distinct style from sumptuous oak panelling to Victorian iron columns and of course barrel-vaulted ceilings. They have made the most of the surroundings creating a series of cosy, light hearted spaces. It is this playfulness that defines the place, from the food to the staff, and it is all the better for it. No po-faced seriousness here.
Hidden down a side street next to the Theatre Royal, the restaurant is primarily intented for people to drop in for a light bite and a glass of wine before a show. As the name would suggest the menu consists of starters and desserts, but it’s not all piddly little finger foods. Though the portions are small, you can expect to find some substantial offerings such as meatballs, steaks, and fish and chips. The constantly changing a la carte menu also tempts with a mouthwatering variety of treats. If one dish isn’t enough to satify then they are cheap enough to order a few, and don’t forget the yummy puds.
I settled for the roast belly of organic rare breed pork with apple tarte tatin and shared some home made garlic bread and sweet potato wedges roasted with baby shallots, garlic and rosemary. The food was superb, and creatively presented. My pork looked like one of those dermal cross sections you see in biology books, as if it had been cut out of the pig with a big square cookie cutter! The meat was beautifully tender and the apple tarte complimented the taste perfectly. The glazed lemon tart with winter berry compote was equally delicious, in fact all the food I have eaten there since has been superb.
The staff are great, friendly but professional, chatty but not intrusive. They seem to have a passion for the place themselves, it could just be an act but if so then it’s a very good one. The prices are good too, averaging around £6-7 for a starter (really a main course) and £4-5 for a dessert, very reasonable given the quality of the food. Even the bar is well stocked. Any negative point’s are really just quibbles; The slightly run down look of the stairs as you first enter, the fact that the vaulted rooms aren’t quite as cosy as the others. Very minor nit-picks.
I don’t know if you’ve noticed from this review but I love Starters and Puds! They’ve remembered what so many others have forgotten; That first and foremost dining out should be fun. From the warm friendly surroundings to the menu that seems to consist entirely of comfort food, Starters and Puds is the ideal place to put your feet up and relax with a quality meal. I just hope to god they do a bank robber swag themed night!
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